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Via Revolucionaria "Hulk" Argentine Semillon 2015, Unfiltered, Low Alcohol, Tart And Quaffable

1/1/2017

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by Patrick Ogle

Via Revolucionaria's Hulk Argentine semillon 2015 is unfiltered, low alcohol (around 10 percent), tart and easy to drink. Semillon is one of the two main white grapes used in white Bordeaux (with all due respect to muscadelle). Semillon is used in renowned sweet and dry wine usually not going above the 50 percent mark in any blend in dry versions.

This wine is a different creature from Bordeaux whites.


On the nose it has a lemony citrus scent. It calls to mind (unsurprisingly) some white bordeaux blends where semillon is, as noted, the junior component to sauvignon blanc. But it is close to that in only tangential ways and more on the nose than the taste. I often think describing the nose, although I do it, a bit funny. What matters is how a wine tastes. I've had cabernets that smelled like burned plastic and then, with a bit of air, were lovely. This wine has a nose that is intriguing and delivers alternate notes in the taste. What you sniff isn't gone. There is just more to it.

This version of semillon  has solid acidity for a grape often accused of being low acid to the point of flaccidness. It has some zip. You can tell this is semillon even with a moderately sensitive palate (as mine) but if you think a bit you get it is different. As we try to emphasize here place, terroir, matter as much and sometimes more than grape. It has some herbal hints here but they are under the radar, under the lemon. I sometimes write about lemon and lemon zest separately. They are similar in their taste but one is the fruit and the other is what you put in a cocktail. I have been told this wine is similar to Australian versions of semillon wine. I haven't had these so I cannot comment.

The folks from Via Revolucionaria apparently found some old vine semillon growing and offered to pay the vineyard malbec prices for the grapes. They also produce a bonarda. Wine lovers should be grateful to winemakers like this--they use native yeasts and, in the case of this wine, they don't filter (this wine is cloudy and full of floating "junk). With all this, however, it is an easy to drink wine. It is about 10 percent alcohol and sounds "odder" than it is. You can sit down, have a glass, while doing some work and wind up looking over to find the bottle done. This is an odd sounding wine that is unique but accessible--especially since it goes for around $16 a bottle.

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