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BLANKbottle Orbitalfrontal Cortex White Blend (2016), A Crisp, Tasty Wine From South Africa

10/12/2018

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by Patrick Ogle

BLANKbottle's Orbitalfrontal Cortex (2016) is a crisp, tasty wine from South Africa that starts with a white grape juciness that gives way to acidity, followed by floral hints. I hate using the word "tasty" for some reason but I wrote it in my notes. I also wrote "I am not really sure what to say."

Of course I didn't leave it there.

The acidity on the finish sort of leaps up and smacks you. It perhaps seems stronger than it is because the first sensation is fruit--white grape juice or maybe melon is likewise boisterous. What you get out of this wine seems to change with every taste. Is it changing with air or am I just noticing different things? This is a wine you may need more than one bottle to sort out. It is peculiar but not in any way that makes it hard to approach. It is quite easy-drinking.

The blend is Clairette Blanche and Verdelho with smaller amounts of Palomino, Chenin Blanc and Grenache Blanc. To say this is an unsual blend is an understatement. Find more information on South African grapes HERE.

Clairette Blanche is a moderately common grape in the South of France (including Southern Rhone, Provence and Languedoc-Rousillon). Historically it has been used in making vermouth. It produces wines with lower acidity and often finds its way into blends with higher acid wines. It is one of the main varietals used in white Chatteau neuf de Pape. It is also used in sparkling wines. It is grown in relatively small amounts in various other places, including South Africa where there are less than 500 acres planted.

Verdelho is a white Portuguese grape grown both on the mainland and on the Madeira Islands. In the latter instance it is mostly used in fortified wines. It is also grown in Galicia in Spain and is making inroads in the New World in South
America, Australia,California and Virginia.

Palomino is the major grape used in making Sherry (Spain), Grenache blanc is grown extensively in France and Spain. Chenin Blanc is a native of France and is the signature grape France's Loire Valley. There are actually more acres planted of Chenin in South Africa than there are in its home country.

I haven't seen them all blended together before but this is probably because, as far as I know, they only grown in the same vicinity in South Africa.

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Terroir al Limit's Historic Priorat Blanc (2015) Garnacha Blanca And Macabeo Blend Shows The Terroir Of Priorat From White Wine's Perspective

3/22/2017

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by Patrick Ogle

Terroir al Limit Historic Priorat Blanc (2015) is a rare white wine from Priorat made from garnacha blanca and macabeo.

It is rare not because either grape is rare but because white wine from Priorat is; five percent or less of the output in a given year is white. Priorat is decidedly red wine territory.

The wine has a deep golden yellow color and some serious acidity and tannins--a great deal of tannin for a white wine. Like other white Priorats I've had these are flinty and mineral with lots of stone and mineral laden rockiness. Indeed, minerality presides and fruit is just a supporting cast member here, although fruit is more apparent as the wine opens up with some air. There is a full, almost viscous, mouthfeel that is expansive and luscious. You get a bit of an "oxidative" sense too. This is the taste you find in sherrys. It isn't nearly as pronounced here-- it is quite subtle but it is there.

The wine calms down after being open for a few hours. It needs time to open up and you should give it time in a decanter. How long? I found that, even in the bottle, after opening and not in a decanter, it opened up a good deal within 2 or 3 hours.

You can taste something woody in the wine--this is likely because of whole cluster pressing since the wine sees no wood barrels. It is a wine that benefits from being open. Hints of white grape and maybe a little honey on the front end it almost reminds of tropical flowers. It isn't sweet but there is a hint of that honeyed scent of tropical flowers. There is also something of fruit rind here. It isn't exactly citrus rind but you get a "rindy-ness', especially on the finish. It finishes with bitterness. I started to think of ripe peach or apricot maybe as I went on with this wine. There is a lot going on here. I tried some on day two and it was still lively and had opened to a point where you get all the nuances and details. It may be that holding onto this wine for a year or two (at least) would reward your patience.

I had it with a Mediterranean plate which seems a pretty solid bet for food pairing--although this could certainly stand up to even bigger and richer foods.

This particular wine is 75 percent garnacha blanca and  25 percent macabeo. It is an expression of the place as much as it is of the grape. You can find out more from the producer HERE.

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Puig Priorat's Odysseus 2009 Garnatxa Blanca, A Substantial Spanish White From A Region Known For Red

9/18/2015

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by Patrick Ogle

Puig Priorat's Vinedos de Ithaca Odysseus 2009 garnatxa blanca is from a region mostly known for its reds.  This, however, is a white wine you can refer to as "substantial." It has body and oak to it (the oak is not overwhelming). There is a hint of fruit. I first thought lemon but citrus isn't quite right here. Perhaps some sort of white plum or something with a barely perceptible hint of tartness.

I kept thinking--is it a persimmon? A white plum? Possibly white raspberry? I gave up on the conjecture and drank some more wine.

It has a nice acidity, high alcohol (over 14 percent) and has hints of vanilla. Vanilla is a common flavor for wines that have been aged in new oak barrels. The wood makes this wine what it is. (aged how long)

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Joseph and Silvia Puig are a father and daughter wine making team apparently infatuated with Greek mythology--so much so they name their wines after heroes. There are a number of different wines named Akyles, Penelope and, obviously, Odysseus.

Unusually they have a number of white wines; these are made from garnacha blanca and pedro ximinez. The reason whites are unusual for a Priorat winemaker is that 96 percent or more of the grapes grown there are red. While their pedro ximinez is a solid wine it is this one that will really stick with you.

Priorat produces some of the greatest wines in Spain. It is a wine region with a rather severe landscape and temperature. Grapes really have to work at it and yields are low. Low yields often mean great wines.

Puig's red blends, by the way, are spectacular, especially the Odysseus.
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    WINE!

    There are thousands of wine grapes and many places that grow great wines. Why not find out about some surprising wines from surprising places?

    NOTE-Until recently I did not capitalize the names of varietal grapes (as a matter of style) but for a variety of reasons as of February, 2018 we will capitalize but I am not going back and altering the previous style!!!


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