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Joseph Drouhin Cote De Beaune A Fine Burgundy (Pinot Noir) From An Area Known For White Wine

3/30/2015

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by Patrick Ogle

Burgundy is pinot noir. Let's get that out of the way right off the bat. That is what I am calling the "surprising" part of this post.  It is just a simple fact yet a fact that doesn't mean the French version and they numerous versions from around the globe are the same; they certainly are not.

There are other red grapes used in Burgundy of course but the wines we call "Burgundy" is pinot. Those wines in a jug from days past? They were not really Burgundy.

Joseph Drouhin produces a variety of noteworthy wines from vineyard locations in France (and in Oregon). They are also what are called a négociants, middleman that purchases grapes from other producers. This particular wine comes from Cote de Beaune in Burgundy.

There is really nothing surprising that wine from Cote de Beaune would be a solid wine --although the Cote de Beaune is maybe known slightly more for white wine. Chardonnay (Pouilly-Fuisse, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Montrachet) is the wine the area is most known for even if there is about the same amount of red and white grown in Cote de Beaune. 

Some folks, at this point are indignantly stomping their feet and saying "I knew Burgundy was pinot noir." To them I say "bully for you." For those who didn't know but have had these wines as well as pinots from around the world; do not feel bad. Moderately knowledgeable people with relatively sensitive palates might well think a California, Pacific Northwest or other pinot, when compared with a Burgundy, are entirely different varietals.

Why?

Part of it has to do with the land, what the French refer to as "terroir." But it is also due to the way wine is made in France (and the European Union) as well.  Pinots from the New World tend to be fruitier and less tannic (astringent). Burgundy has less fruit and more mineral elements in addition to their more tannic profile. Mineral is a taste that is pretty much what it sounds like--a whiff of the inorganic.

This wine conforms to what you would think of when you think of a Burgundy--it isn't fruity, it has mineral elements and while tannic it isn't extreme in that regard. You won't notice the massive difference if you let your glass sit for a wee bit exposed to air. What would be really interesting would be to taste this--or even some higher end Drouhin Burgundy next to the excellent pinot noirs they produce in Oregon--I spent $60 on bottle years ago and am unsure what this particular version costs these days.

Regarding tannins, the website Winefolly has a solid piece on the subject.You can check it out HERE.

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As an (hopefully) interesting note, in France there are designations for types of wine; it can get somewhat complicated. For quality wines there is what is called an AOC (appellations d'origine contrôlée) that covers a given area--at the largest the French equivalent of a U.S. state--yet that isn't the only AOC possible in the area. Within that larger area, in this case Burgundy, are other AOC. Cote de Beaune is one of these and it can be used by wine from the area. There are also Cote de Beaune Villages and Hautes-Cote de Beaune.  The entire area is the Southern part of the wine region, Cote d' Or.  AOC can overlap.

I am tempted to get into more detail but the details of the various classifications for wine in Burgundy are far from simple. These classifications can make your head explode. They are complex and numerous and far beyond the scope of any short explanation and Burgundy has more AOC than any other region of France.

And then there are EU rules and designations over top of the national ones. As a general rule? The smaller, the more specific, the AOC the better the wine.

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Catalpa Chardonnay From Bodega Atamisque In  Argentina--An Argentine White ....

3/28/2015

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by Patrick Ogle

Catalpa Chardonnay
comes from Bodega Atamisque in Mendoza, Argentina. The reason it qualifies in my book as a "surprising wine" is the years I've spent deriding most Argentine whites. Sure, I love their Malbecs. In my humble opinion they are better than the French (sorry Cahors!). They also make some excellent cabernet sauvignon.

But I have always been, at best, dismissive of their white wines. I am willing to admit maybe I just missed the good ones but I've had plenty and in a wide range of prices.

They often were plain bad--and pricey versions didn't compare with their French and American counterparts in any meaningful way. I had yet to find a chardonnay from Mendoza I thought more than tolerable (that I can recall anyway). Catalpa has changed this and shown me the golden-greenish color of a solid, unique, chardonnay. Maybe I just needed to find this particular part of Mendoza (Alto Tupungato, Uco Valley).

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This chard has an almost Old World feel. When talking about wine Old World refers to (basically) Europe and New World refers to everywhere else. I will not bore with a long discussion of what Old vs. New implies in a general sense but in a very simplified chardonnay-centric description might be that New World tends to be oaky and buttery while old world tends to be less-oaky/ not oaky and virtually NEVER buttery (butteriness comes from a process called malolactic fermentation).

The wine is aged in stainless steel and oak for about 50 percent of the time each. This gives the wine some oak but that oakiness is never overwhelming. The wine is grown at an altitude of over 4000 feet. You can see golden color, with some teases of green, in the photo of the poured class of wine. Catalpa Chardonnay certainly has some acid which balances nicely with its apple-centric fruit flavors. There is an almost flinty taste to the wine calling to the mind a Chablis or two because of its minerality (means what you think it does!) which is probably the reason for my Old World reference. This wine has some butter but like the oak it isn't overwhelming.

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While I try to avoid jargon discussing the specific fruit flavors a wine mimics sometimes the jargon is ideal and using it is hard to avoid. Besides, we all know what apples or blackberries taste like. This wine, according to the winery tasting notes, this wine has "Delicate aromas of apple, pineapple and honey." I might hesitate to include "honey," not because it is wrong but because it might make someone think of sweetness. And there really isn't a great deal of sweetness in this wine!

The term "butter" is one I almost have to use; you will see it used constantly referring to chardonnay. If you taste a chard that is buttery and one next to it that is not, the term's meaning is unmistakable; it is a taste that almost seems viscous (especially when overdone).  You can feel free to argue or point out the incongruity of my saying “this wine seems Old World,” then saying “butter is a New World thing.” Sometimes, to me, there is just something about a wine, something buried in its complexity that reminds you of something— almost a like a déjà vu feeling.  For certain there are a handful of people out there who can sniff the wine and tell you the chemical breakdown of the soil the where the grapes grew but most of us cannot. In any case, how does that amazing skill help us grab a bottle at the supermarket?

This is a single vineyard wine; all the grapes were grown in the same place. This means that, all things being equal (weather for instance), the wines they produce should be solid, if different, year to year. This one was a 2011 and I plan to revisit some of the wine's more recent incarnations.

This is a chardonnay drinkers chardonnay; it is a white with body to it, heft. If you are looking for a lighter wine? Look elsewhere. If you need your chard to have NO OAK whatever? Look elsewhere. But for a medium oak, big chard you won't find one in the just shy of $20 price range that is much better.

$17-20
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Royal Tokaji Furmint, The "Low End" (For The Winery) White From Hungary With The High End Taste

3/25/2015

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by Patrick Ogle

Furmint
is a varietal grape grown mostly in Eastern Europe, particularly Hungary (although this statement will doubtless irk Slovaks). This specific lovely dry, white wine is from Hungary's Royal Tokaji. It is peculiar that, despite how good it is, referring to it as "low end" within the winery is accurate; a lot of their other wines, be they dry or sweet, are significantly more expensive.

Furmint is just one of the grapes used in making the various Tokaji wines but a discussion of the other grapes and their well-thought of dessert wines must be left for another time. We are all about the dry Furmint today.

Furmint is a white that has complexity you don't always find in light colored vinos. The wine is, as noted, dry, without even a hint of sweetness. The fruit tastes are subtle as well. You will see, beginning with the winery tasting notes from the Royal Tokaji, that the wine has "grape flower, gooseberry and lime aromas with a hint of nuts". Certainly the lime-like citrus taste is there but none of these are flavors that beat you over the head while drinking it. It was aged half in stainless or half in barrels. The term complex here references how there is more going on here than a single or a handful of tastes. This is where all the flowery phrases about "grape flower" and "gooseberry" come from--you may find your own, equally valid, ways to describe this wine. One of the great things about wine, of course, is the possibility of complexity. When you drink grape juice? It is grape juice but when you drink wine? There are a ton of possibilities for stimulation of the palate (although sometimes a nice un-complex wine is fine too).

I first discovered Furmint in the bargain bin of a local Chicago wine shop. I was told that there were ongoing legal issues surrounding the use of the term "Tokaji" (in various versions). These refer to an area in the former Austro-Hungarian Empire that was split between then Czechoslovakia and Hungary following World War I. Various suits had been brought over the name. The wine I found was a markdown from one of the losers in the battle (which was neither Slovakia nor Hungary if I recall correctly). The disputes over precise use of the term seem to have been resolved via a decision in 2012.

Hungary did appeal the decision against them mentioned in that article--and lost. The dispute, when you read more, is a bit arcane to folks who just want a nice glass of wine! But if you were a Hungarian producer of fine wine? You might be more than a little irritated at a potentially defective version of your product. Likewise, as a Slovak, you might get testy over the suggestion your wine is "inferior."

Perhaps a tasting of wines from each country is in order. Nevertheless, this particular wine is a best buy. Grab it if you see it. Also, this is a white wine that is supposed to have some longevity; I will likely never know this for certain because I drink it as soon as I get my hands on it.

$14-16

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    WINE!

    There are thousands of wine grapes and many places that grow great wines. Why not find out about some surprising wines from surprising places?

    NOTE-Until recently I did not capitalize the names of varietal grapes (as a matter of style) but for a variety of reasons as of February, 2018 we will capitalize but I am not going back and altering the previous style!!!


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