by Patrick Ogle
Rolly Gassmann 2009 auxerrois is a sweet wine from Alsace in France. The grape is often used to make dry wines but this particular version takes a walk on the sugary side. Auxerrois is a grape that many have never heard of but if you have had a pinot blanc from Alsace, you’ve likely drank it. The grape is often used in blends with pinot blanc that are allowed to be labeled only as pinot blanc. You will also find it in cremant de Alsace, the sparkling wine of the region. While it is often used in blends it is also a varietal wine.
This wine has sweetness and an almost oily feel like something you might expect in a riesling. Yet this is not an analog for a riesling for a variety of reasons. The sweetness and fruitiness are not balanced out with acidity and its lack of some qualities you usually associate with sweet wines will make this not to everyone’s taste. If you are not a fan of sweet wines this will not appeal to you while some high end rieslings or gewurtztraminers might. Some might find the wine a little "flabby." It is a bit one dimensional.
Usually auxerrois refers to this grape but the name has been applied to other varietals too. If you want to be more specific and avoid any confusion you can call it auxerrois blanc. It is mostly grown in France, in Alsace, but there have been plantings in the Pacific Northwest and Canada (and other areas). The grape is thought to be offspring of gouais blanc and pinot noir which means chardonnay shares at least one parent grape with auxerrois.
One thing to note, and be certain to note, is that not liking sweet wines does not make you special. There are a large number of great sweet wines; these may be rieslings or dessert wines. You are not showing sophistication by stating “I don’t like sweet wine.” Keep in mind the person writing this is not generally a fan of sweet wine; I am just not proud of it. There will be more sweet wines discussed here soon.
$25-30
Rolly Gassmann 2009 auxerrois is a sweet wine from Alsace in France. The grape is often used to make dry wines but this particular version takes a walk on the sugary side. Auxerrois is a grape that many have never heard of but if you have had a pinot blanc from Alsace, you’ve likely drank it. The grape is often used in blends with pinot blanc that are allowed to be labeled only as pinot blanc. You will also find it in cremant de Alsace, the sparkling wine of the region. While it is often used in blends it is also a varietal wine.
This wine has sweetness and an almost oily feel like something you might expect in a riesling. Yet this is not an analog for a riesling for a variety of reasons. The sweetness and fruitiness are not balanced out with acidity and its lack of some qualities you usually associate with sweet wines will make this not to everyone’s taste. If you are not a fan of sweet wines this will not appeal to you while some high end rieslings or gewurtztraminers might. Some might find the wine a little "flabby." It is a bit one dimensional.
Usually auxerrois refers to this grape but the name has been applied to other varietals too. If you want to be more specific and avoid any confusion you can call it auxerrois blanc. It is mostly grown in France, in Alsace, but there have been plantings in the Pacific Northwest and Canada (and other areas). The grape is thought to be offspring of gouais blanc and pinot noir which means chardonnay shares at least one parent grape with auxerrois.
One thing to note, and be certain to note, is that not liking sweet wines does not make you special. There are a large number of great sweet wines; these may be rieslings or dessert wines. You are not showing sophistication by stating “I don’t like sweet wine.” Keep in mind the person writing this is not generally a fan of sweet wine; I am just not proud of it. There will be more sweet wines discussed here soon.
$25-30
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