by Patrick Ogle
Anne Amie Vineyards might make you take a second, or a first, look at the oft-maligned müller-thurgau grape and the wine that comes from it. The Oregon winery does a great job with the Swiss creation that is the second most grown grape in Germany.
Müller-thurgau is a grape purposely created by crossing riesling with another less known grape, madeline royale. Hermann Müller, a Swiss doctor, was the man behind the cross back in 1882. He apparently wanted a grape that ripened earlier but kept many of the other qualities of riesling. In the former he was rewarded and in the latter he was not.
This is a grape that has often inspired disdain from wine snobs, in part, because it has often been used to make bad wine. I would point out the same is true of numerous other grapes but in a general sense I would tend to agree with the disdain because, up until now, I haven’t liked the wines made müller-thurgau —except in blends . A nice example of a blend, also out of Oregon, is Montinore Estate’s Borealis. Sometimes blending wines just do not make good varietals.
Up until now I’d only found müller-thurgau as a varietal to be, at best, tolerable. This wine from Anne Amie Vineyards in the Yamhill-Carlton district of Oregon has made me rethink MY snobbery.
The first fruit flavor you taste is reminiscent of pear. Literally every review--to say nothing of the winery notes--lists a different fruit from apricots to key lime to citrus pith; when is the last time you tasted citrus pith? I think the gist here is that the wine is crisp and reminiscent of lighter fruits. It is smooth with minimal acidity. It is a crowd pleasing, easy-drinking, wine. There is no hint of oakiness which isn’t surprising since this grape isn’t usually oaked. This wine is, in fact, ages in stainless steel.
Anne Amie Vineyards might make you take a second, or a first, look at the oft-maligned müller-thurgau grape and the wine that comes from it. The Oregon winery does a great job with the Swiss creation that is the second most grown grape in Germany.
Müller-thurgau is a grape purposely created by crossing riesling with another less known grape, madeline royale. Hermann Müller, a Swiss doctor, was the man behind the cross back in 1882. He apparently wanted a grape that ripened earlier but kept many of the other qualities of riesling. In the former he was rewarded and in the latter he was not.
This is a grape that has often inspired disdain from wine snobs, in part, because it has often been used to make bad wine. I would point out the same is true of numerous other grapes but in a general sense I would tend to agree with the disdain because, up until now, I haven’t liked the wines made müller-thurgau —except in blends . A nice example of a blend, also out of Oregon, is Montinore Estate’s Borealis. Sometimes blending wines just do not make good varietals.
Up until now I’d only found müller-thurgau as a varietal to be, at best, tolerable. This wine from Anne Amie Vineyards in the Yamhill-Carlton district of Oregon has made me rethink MY snobbery.
The first fruit flavor you taste is reminiscent of pear. Literally every review--to say nothing of the winery notes--lists a different fruit from apricots to key lime to citrus pith; when is the last time you tasted citrus pith? I think the gist here is that the wine is crisp and reminiscent of lighter fruits. It is smooth with minimal acidity. It is a crowd pleasing, easy-drinking, wine. There is no hint of oakiness which isn’t surprising since this grape isn’t usually oaked. This wine is, in fact, ages in stainless steel.
If you are a fan of sauvignon blanc this wine totally lacks the grassiness of the ones from down under (Australia/ New Zealand). It has a little more body than many mid priced American sauvignon blanc. I often think the American and Aussie/New Zealand sauvignon blanc wines benefit from being served very cold. You can serve this wine quite cold but it has a little more to it and opens up at a slightly higher temp. By that I mean you can taste MORE in this wine at a higher temp (generally true).
Fans of un-oaked chardonnay will appreciate this while those who like big oak or butteriness may or may not be fans. I like variety in my wine so I will go big oak and no oak on a whim, a mood or depending on what I am eating. This has some analogs with dry riesling except it lacks the acid. It is a less “simple” wine than most pinot grigio/pinot gris.
Again, if you grab a DIFFERENT, müller-thurgau do not expect the above to hold up. Even a different year from the Anne Amie Vineyards may well be different. I would expect subsequent things (weather being favorable) to improve.
Anne Amie is also a wine maker well worth more examination. Oregon produces some truly great wine.
$14-18
Fans of un-oaked chardonnay will appreciate this while those who like big oak or butteriness may or may not be fans. I like variety in my wine so I will go big oak and no oak on a whim, a mood or depending on what I am eating. This has some analogs with dry riesling except it lacks the acid. It is a less “simple” wine than most pinot grigio/pinot gris.
Again, if you grab a DIFFERENT, müller-thurgau do not expect the above to hold up. Even a different year from the Anne Amie Vineyards may well be different. I would expect subsequent things (weather being favorable) to improve.
Anne Amie is also a wine maker well worth more examination. Oregon produces some truly great wine.
$14-18
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