by Patrick Ogle
Louis-Antoine Luyt's Pipeño is an odd wine made from an old, oft-derided grape (pais). When you open it you will notice a cloudiness and maybe some detritus floating in the glass.The color, in most wines, might make you think something has gone wrong but here it is a sign that something has gone right.
I have read and heard comparisons to Beaujolais and there is, maybe, some of that in the wine--some of the more barnyardy versions. But this light red wine is its own thing. The pais grape is a hearty Spanish grape grown in the early colonial years at missions in California and throughout the Spanish New World. This wine is both something hip young wine drinkers will enjoy and a blast from the distant past.
Louis-Antoine Luyt's Pipeño is an odd wine made from an old, oft-derided grape (pais). When you open it you will notice a cloudiness and maybe some detritus floating in the glass.The color, in most wines, might make you think something has gone wrong but here it is a sign that something has gone right.
I have read and heard comparisons to Beaujolais and there is, maybe, some of that in the wine--some of the more barnyardy versions. But this light red wine is its own thing. The pais grape is a hearty Spanish grape grown in the early colonial years at missions in California and throughout the Spanish New World. This wine is both something hip young wine drinkers will enjoy and a blast from the distant past.
It definitely has a whiff of the gamay grape (the grape that makes Beaujolais). The first taste reminded me a little of cherry then the tannins hit. It has a dusty, earthy feel to it. There is a bitterness to the finish and, in fact, there are many unique, earthy tastes to this wine. There is almost something cider-like here. Those who feel all wines should taste like a fine Bordeaux will not like this; of course those people are usually quite dull (even if they are also quite rich). This is unique and rustic and hopefully it will catch on. Not every wine needs to be refined and crystal clear.
I'd been told the wine changes in interesting ways after opened so I let the bottle sit for 24 hours. It is true, as with many wines, the character of this one changed after being opened but in unique fashion. Any tannins are gone and the first sip made me think more of the fruit. It was, in some ways, a better wine after some air got to it--or perhaps not better but different. There is something that reminded me of the lambrusco grape for some reason (without the sparkle). It isn't expensive and comes in a liter bottle so buy a bottle to drink one night and another to decant!
The pais grape has been described as being the mission grape but I've also read it is a cousin of that grape. It may also just be the same grape that has adapted to where it is grown. This is a "terroir" driven wine; its qualities are determined by the conditions where it is grown. Luyt is from France but buys his grapes from small organic producers using native yeasts in fermentation. This is true Chilean wine. Find out more via Louis Dresser Selections.
$16-18
I'd been told the wine changes in interesting ways after opened so I let the bottle sit for 24 hours. It is true, as with many wines, the character of this one changed after being opened but in unique fashion. Any tannins are gone and the first sip made me think more of the fruit. It was, in some ways, a better wine after some air got to it--or perhaps not better but different. There is something that reminded me of the lambrusco grape for some reason (without the sparkle). It isn't expensive and comes in a liter bottle so buy a bottle to drink one night and another to decant!
The pais grape has been described as being the mission grape but I've also read it is a cousin of that grape. It may also just be the same grape that has adapted to where it is grown. This is a "terroir" driven wine; its qualities are determined by the conditions where it is grown. Luyt is from France but buys his grapes from small organic producers using native yeasts in fermentation. This is true Chilean wine. Find out more via Louis Dresser Selections.
$16-18
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