by Patrick Ogle
La Boutanche Rose 2015, made from the oft reviled grolleau grape, is tart, crisp and has what seems a hint of effervescence when you first open it; this vanishes quickly. The finish has subtle hints of tannin and a little bitterness. It is an rose with a little more to it than the ones you down with two fists in the summertime. Part of me couldn't help thinking of a non-bubbly lambrusco. There is something floral and the fruit is bright, tart and summery (watermelon? strawberry?). But do not mistake this rose for a Provencal rose; as noted it is tart, mildly tannic and has a hint of bitterness.
This is a grape that at least four well-known wine writers have said should be torn up and replaced with cab franc. There are some great cab francs in the Loire Valley; why suggest getting rid of a lesser known, lesser grown grape? The only reason I can think of is that some experts think there should only be a handful of grapes grown and that grapes/wines that do not fit into some quite specific taste parameters have no value.
I do not concur (despite not being a renowned expert).
Not everything outside of Napa Cabs, Bordeaux-style blends or other classic French styles has no value. In the hands of interesting winemakers (or in certain areas) discounted grapes can thrive. I do not know what a red made from grolleau would taste like and there may be some truly foul roses from the grape out there but this wine is not one of them. It is a wonderful light to medium bodied rose that will please lovers of the standard rose fare but offers a little something different to wine lovers looking for new horizons can also enjoy.
La Boutanche Rose 2015, made from the oft reviled grolleau grape, is tart, crisp and has what seems a hint of effervescence when you first open it; this vanishes quickly. The finish has subtle hints of tannin and a little bitterness. It is an rose with a little more to it than the ones you down with two fists in the summertime. Part of me couldn't help thinking of a non-bubbly lambrusco. There is something floral and the fruit is bright, tart and summery (watermelon? strawberry?). But do not mistake this rose for a Provencal rose; as noted it is tart, mildly tannic and has a hint of bitterness.
This is a grape that at least four well-known wine writers have said should be torn up and replaced with cab franc. There are some great cab francs in the Loire Valley; why suggest getting rid of a lesser known, lesser grown grape? The only reason I can think of is that some experts think there should only be a handful of grapes grown and that grapes/wines that do not fit into some quite specific taste parameters have no value.
I do not concur (despite not being a renowned expert).
Not everything outside of Napa Cabs, Bordeaux-style blends or other classic French styles has no value. In the hands of interesting winemakers (or in certain areas) discounted grapes can thrive. I do not know what a red made from grolleau would taste like and there may be some truly foul roses from the grape out there but this wine is not one of them. It is a wonderful light to medium bodied rose that will please lovers of the standard rose fare but offers a little something different to wine lovers looking for new horizons can also enjoy.
RSS Feed