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La Boutanche Rose 2015, From The Loire, Uses The Little Used And Oft Reviled Grape, Grolleau, To Good Effect

4/14/2016

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by Patrick Ogle

La Boutanche Rose 2015, made from the oft reviled grolleau grape, is tart, crisp and has what  seems  a hint of effervescence when you first open it; this vanishes quickly. The finish has subtle hints of tannin and a little bitterness. It is an rose with a little more to it than the ones you down with two fists in the summertime. Part of me couldn't help thinking of a non-bubbly lambrusco. There is something floral and the fruit is bright, tart and summery (watermelon? strawberry?). But do not mistake this rose for a Provencal rose; as noted it is tart, mildly tannic and has a hint of bitterness.


This is a grape that at least four well-known wine writers have said should be torn up and replaced with cab franc. There are some great cab francs in the Loire Valley; why suggest getting rid of a lesser known, lesser grown grape? The only reason I can think of is that some experts think there should only be a handful of grapes grown and that grapes/wines that do not fit into some quite specific taste parameters have no value.

I do not concur (despite not being a renowned expert).

Not everything outside of Napa Cabs, Bordeaux-style blends or other classic French styles has no value. In the hands of interesting winemakers (or in certain areas) discounted grapes can thrive. I do not know what a red made from grolleau would taste like and there may be some truly foul roses from the grape out there but this wine is not one of them. It is a wonderful light to medium bodied rose that will please lovers of the standard rose fare but offers a little something different to wine lovers looking for new horizons can also enjoy.

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    WINE!

    There are thousands of wine grapes and many places that grow great wines. Why not find out about some surprising wines from surprising places?

    NOTE-Until recently I did not capitalize the names of varietal grapes (as a matter of style) but for a variety of reasons as of February, 2018 we will capitalize but I am not going back and altering the previous style!!!


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