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Kerner, A White Grape Named For A German Physician And Poet, Is A Less Acidic Offspring Of Riesling

3/13/2016

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by Patrick Ogle
 
Kerner was created in the 1920s and named for a poet and physician, Justinus Kerner. Dr. Kerner was apparently a proponent of consumption of wine for health. Bravo Dr. Kerner! And as far as the group of grapes created during the era? Kerner may be the prize (with all due respect to the worthy muller-thurgau).



This, Kofererhof kerner 2012 (Alto Adige, Germany), has a light golden straw color. I had no idea what to think when it came to taste as I have never drank a kerner before. It had slight hints of fruit--lime zest for instance--and floral notes aplenty. It reminded me, in some small way, of orangetraube. This isn't surprising because both have similarities to riesling. In fact, kerner is a cross between riesling and the Northern Italian/Southern German grape, schiava grosso (also known as trollinger). There is a bit of the herbal here too. Basel? Rosemary? This comes when you breath in, a crisp almost pine sensation but quite subtle.

There is acidity and a tiny, tiny hint of sweetness here (it is a dry wine) and a bitter almost astringent finish; it has some bite on the back end. This wine lacks the sort of "oily" or "petrol" scent you get with rieslings though so do not expect that with your kerner.

This particular kerner is aged in steel tanks and bottled the year following its harvest. It comes in at a bit over $25 and is well worth the price. It seems to really stand a few years in the bottle as well.

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    WINE!

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    NOTE-Until recently I did not capitalize the names of varietal grapes (as a matter of style) but for a variety of reasons as of February, 2018 we will capitalize but I am not going back and altering the previous style!!!


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