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What Is Champagne?

4/21/2021

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 What is Champagne?

Basically Champagne is a place and a type of sparkling wine. That is the simplest definition. It is also a method of making sparkling wine that is distinct. You will see it referred to as méthode champenoise or méthode traditionnelle (aka traditional method). There are other terms but we don't need to get bogged down in that. Champagne producers can get snippy if non-Champagne producers call it méthode champenoise. If it isn't FROM Champagne? It isn't Champagne.

Yet sometimes you will see bottles that say "California Champagne." Why? Because when all this was agreed to there was a grandfather clause. Most producers stopped using the term even when they were allowed. Others (I'm looking at you Korbel and Andre!) continue to use "Champagne" on their label.

Chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier are the three main grapes used in Champagne. People are, occasionally, surprised by this, especially those who decided all chardonnay is bad (as an aside...chardonnay produces some of the greatest white wine in the world). The other grapes allowed are arbane, petit meslier, pinot blanc and pinot gris.  Occasionally there are producers who use the last four but they make up a tiny portion of plantings in the region.

There is, among some folks, a notion that the rules and place where Champagne can be made are some ancient tradition. They are in fact not 100 years old. Also, the boundaries of Champagne have been changed with in the last 15 years. This realignment is changing what was originally codified on June 29, 1936. Hardly an ancient tradition.

NOW, this is a quite basic sketch of what Champagne is. I wanted to make it even more succinct but didn't! You can read more at www.champagne.fr/en/homepage.

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Beaujolais, A Place, A Wine And MAYBE Not What You Think

4/9/2021

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by Patrick Ogle

Today there is something of an odd perception of Beaujolais. This may be based on SUCCESSFUL marketing. Everyone knows Beaujolais nouveau and for some time it was extremely popular (it is still popular, but I'd hesitate to say "extremely").  That is part of the problem; people have had Beaujolais nouveau which is a simple, fruity wine. It is also wine that has a reputation for not being, shall we say, fine wine. Because of the A-list, multi-year marketing campaign when many folks think of Beaujolais they think of nouveau. This is an unfortunate side effect of wine makers doing what they do--selling wine.

Beaujolais is a place, not a grape. It is actually part of Burgundy, although in function, if not fact, it is a separate wine region.  When you look at many, if not most, European wines, you will find the place name is what is on the label. These places, however, come with specific grapes that are allowed. The place is the thing in Europe. Remember that, because it isn't just Beaujolais. Champagne, Bordeaux and Cote de Rhone are all places that give their names to wines.

In Beaujolais the red grape is gamay. Some other grapes are allowed in the mix here and there and there is a small amount of Beaujolais white (which is usually chardonnay). But for our purposes here? We are talking about gamay.

So why do I think it is worthwhile to give Beaujolais a chance? First the wine, even from a relatively small area, demonstrates how one grape can be many things. Gamay can be light fruity and easy to drink. Gamay can even get to be a sort of "big" wine with high alcohol, body, fruit and tannins (while acknowledging that it is generally not "huge" by today's standards). Even though prices have been rising rapidly? You can still get excellent Beaujolais at a decent price.


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In my eyes there are three basic things to look at (this is true of wine in general).

-What is the grape (or grapes)?
-Where is it from?
-Who made it?
-What year is it from?

If it says “Beaujolais” on the bottle? It is gamay. This does not mean that all Beaujolais is created equal.

Who made it is on the label as is the year. For folks buying wine for everyday drinking? The year matters but, frankly, it is not always easy to keep up with this. Some years are hot, some are cold, some have hail and all these things matter but for most people? This is way more detail than they can deal with when buying a bottle. Find a wine shop where employees can fill in the details.

Who makes the wine is pivotal. There are some Beaujolais producers that fall into the “cannot go wrong” category. These  include Foillard, Breton, Thevenet, Dutraive, Thivin and many others. I’ve heard distributors say that certain producers won the “gene pool lottery” by inheriting such great vineyards.
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Basic things to remember about Beaujolais include what you are likely to see on the bottles:

Beaujolais nouveau--An inexpensive, fruity version of the wine that comes out every November. Drink it soon.

Beaujolais-The next level up. Wines vary wildly at this level and knowing your producers is a big help.

Beaujolais-Village-Technically a step up from wines labelled Beaujolais and again, pay attention to the producer.

Cru Beaujolais--You will read people saying wines from these areas all have certain flavors, or are made in a similar style. It is true, up to a point. That is the reason for these small, geographically distinct areas. But there can be as many differences between wines within a cru as there are similarities. The ten crus are;

-Morgon
-Moulin a Vent
-Chenas
-Brouilly
-Côte de Brouilly
-Julienas
-Saint Amour
-Regnie
-Fleurie
-Chiroubles


You will see gamay grown in other parts of France like the Loire. It has also found a home in Oregon. Likewise, inspired by the fact they only know Beaujolais nouveau, you may hear disparagement of Beaujolais. This is simply a display of ignorance. There are good, mediocre and terrible wines from Beaujolais. Likewise there are good, bad and terrible wines from Bordeaux, Rhone, Burgundy, Napa, Chianti, Rioja and damn near every other well known wine producing area.

Embrace Beaujolais and it will reward you.

Want more detail? These are all interesting pieces.


An interesting piece on wine regions, AOCs and the controversy they inspire.
https://www.winespectator.com/articles/is-chablis-part-of-burgundy-what-about-beaujolais

Maps, details and more on Beaujolais.
https://thisislyon.fr/food-and-drink/drink/beaujolais-wine-region-guide/ 

Another discussion of Beaujolais. 
https://flatiron-wines.com/blogs/the-latest/what-is-the-difference-between-beaujolais-beaujolais-village-and-the-beaujolais-crus

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What Makes A Wine Dry?

3/22/2019

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 Why makes a wine dry?

The simplest answer to this question is--an absence of sugar.  Dry is the opposite of sweet. A wine cannot be dry and sweet at the same time. If you ask for something that is "not too dry" you are asking for a wine that is a little sweet. If you ask for a wine that isn't dry and isn't sweet you are  being a tad confusing.

You will also hear the term "off dry" which means the wine is a little bit but not super sweet. Other terms you may see are "medium sweet" or "sweet." When you get to this point the grams per liter is a better way to sort out what is bone dry and what is super duper sweet. Wine Folly has a neat breakdown of how much sugar (in grams per liter) to give you an idea how much sugar is in a bone dry versus a super sweet wine. You can check it out HERE.

People can (understandably) get confused when tasting a fruit forward wine. Sometimes such wine will give the impression of sweetness without much sugar being present. Likewise a dry wine doesn't always mean there is NO residual sugar. Grapes, indeed, have some sugars in them that are not fermentable and these remain in a wine.

Here is a little, oft unspoken, wine secret; wine is created when yeast eats the sugar in grapes and poops (for lack of a better term) alcohol. In dry wines the yeast eats most of the fermentable sugars (fructose and glucose). In sweeter wines less pooping means more sugar in the wine. NOW...there are also fortified wines which is another matter. Discussion of Port, Madeira and Sherry can take place another time! Likewise for sparkling wines.

We will get into each of these later!

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    Wine Chat

    This section is about commonly used, and misused,  wine terms (with a few less common ones tossed in). The aim is to help you chat with the people you buy wine from and get the right wine for your taste or occasion. We will also toss in talk about wine regions, ideas for choosing wine and more.  If you have questions? Email to wine@patrickogle.com.

    Comments & clarifications are welcome (We do vet such things).

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