Interviews

Arianna Occhipinti Has Made Wine In Sicily Since Before It Would Have Been Legal For Her To Drink It In The USA

6/25/2018

by Patrick Ogle

Arianna Occhipinti has been working in the wine business since before she would have been legal to take a sip of vino in the USA. Fortunately for wine lovers Occhipinto hails from Sicily, part of a family steeped in the business of wine. Her uncle, Giusto, is the man behind COS wine and she he was a major influence in her interest in wine. She didn’t just study at her uncle’s knee; she went to college to study viticulture (University of Milan).

Winemaking isn’t just a field of study to Occhipinti. It is something more all-encompassing.

“Making wine is a vocation, a choice, it is life.I know that the wine industry has so many different faces, craft wines, natural wines, industrial wines, conventional wines for everyone and for anyone.” says Occhipinti. “But I also know that wine is first of all craftsmanship; perhaps it can be an art form, the result of the most intimate expression of our soils and of our choices, inclinations and pleasures. I met many people thanks to the wine and some of them managed to capture their soul; wine gives us the opportunity to express our most authentic expression.”

When the moderately knowledgeable wine enthusiast thinks of Italy they think of Tuscany or Nebbiolo from Piedmont: the Barolos, Barbarescus and Gattinaras of the world. Only the few think of Sicily, part of Italy with grapes generally not found elsewhere.

“Sicily has many native grapes; many of these are now almost relics, some definitely abandoned unfortunately. The indigenous grapes are for me the best connection between what I want to express and the territory. Through these varieties we can talk about our soils, the climate of Vittoria, its sands, its calcareous rocks,” she says. “Our wines tell the territory in an authentic way and without excessive mediation; I would recommend trying them because they show all the freshness, the salinity and the elegance of our territory, which never lets us forget that we are at the center of the Mediterranean.”

There is something saline, rocky and exuberant about her wines, be they white or red, varietals or blends. Being true to the area, Vittoria, is paramount.

“In the cellar I work to give value to the characteristics that come from the territory of Vittoria. The wines that derive from these lands maintain a fresh and elegant character thanks to a strong presence of sand on calcareous and rocky layers; it is the soil that often makes the difference here, having more or less similar altitudes,” she says. “Of great consideration also the thermal excursion, the temperatures always quite fresh during the ripening period and the exposure.”

Many wine lover’s introduction to Occhipinti’s wines is her SP68, be it bianco or rosso.

“The blends for me should not be done only in the cellar: I do not vinify everything and then start to do blends. After a few years working with different parcels.” says Occhipinti. “I know them well; I think that one respect to another has a tendency to produce more fruity or salty or mineral wines. Based on these considerations, I chose the vineyards for each wine.”

The white version, perhaps the more obscure of the SP68 wines, is Moscato di Alessandria and Albanello. Usually with more of the former than the latter used in the wine.

“The white SP 68 comes each year from two vineyards of pink sand and limestone,” she says. “The percentage of the grapes varies around 60-40, but can change a little every year depending on the production of the vineyard.”

The red blend is Frappato and Nero D'Avola.

These wines, and indeed all the Occhipinti wines I’ve tried, are unique while at the same time being accessible. People who enjoy the most esoteric natural wines (Occhipinti wines are biodynamic/natural wines) and run of the mill grocery store wines will enjoy these wines. This is, part of making wine to Occhipinti.

“The wines must be able to talk to everyone. I am extremely happy talking to fans and also to lovers. Over the years I have tried to improve and above all I understood that in order to express my terroir I had to be part of the process, but not the main element.”

She says that there are innumerable moments when the winemaker makes choices that will affect the wine.

“I do it in full respect of what I believe should be the inclination of Vittoria wines. I learned reduce interventions to go to the essential,” she says. “I tried to drink and still drink so many wines, this makes me understand what to improve, what's good and what I like most to feel in a wine.”

Occhipinti wants to reach out to all wine enthusiasts, so why make “natural wine”?

“Making natural wine is the only way to make wine that I know.” she says.
The notion of there being some strict line between “natural” wine and “normal” wine is nonsense in any case. Calling a wine “natural” is a nebulous thing. It generally means minimal intervention from a winemaker, not using chemicals as much as is possible. Biodynamic wine is less nebulous in that it has fairly well defined rules (whether all these rules really matter is a matter of question). Occhipinti is not dogmatic, except in the notion that terroir is key.

"For me, a wine is authentic if it has the flavor of the territory it comes from, tells the seasons of the year that I would absolutely like to hear and the choices of those who do it, without ever distorting the substance.” says Occhipinti. “This can only be done by making natural wines, because they are strongly linked to the territory of origin; in addition to the total abolition of chemical additives both in the vineyard and in the cellar, they are wines that respect the place where they come from and also the health of those who drink them.”

She notes her practice includes putting together different methods: organic, natural and biodynamic farming. Respect for nature and taking care of the land while trying to make the best grapes to be vinified come together in Occhipinti’s world.

The future beckons Occhipinti. She says that every day drives her to new endeavors. Her future lies in Bombolieri in Vittoria making wine, of course. Wine is her life.

“There is a new white vineyard on the Iblei Mountains, there are other parcels from which I started making single vineyard wines, then there is wheat and an agriculture to be improved and then I hope there will also be a family.” she says.

Find out more HERE.

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Ruben Parera, Farmer and Winemaker At Finca Parera, Creates Wine Reflecting The Terroir Of Upper Penedes, Spain

3/14/2018

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by Patrick Ogle

Ruben Parera is a farmer and a winemaker.

He is, in fact, a fourth generation farmer in Penedes, Spain, an area becoming known for its natural wines made from native grapes. Finca Parera is a fairly small producer, creating only around 1500 cases of wine a year. If you find bottles in the USA you can count yourself lucky. These are truly wines that reflect where the grapes grew up; the land is what you taste in your glass.

“The first step is always the vineyard and the agriculture with which you will work the plot." says Parera.

They are also a Biodynamic producer, following the rigorous set of rules that entails. Parera says the Biodynamic work and training with an individual tutor (one for each strain) is very important in the health of the grapes. Their wines use native yeasts and minimal sulpher. Finca Parera do not interfere in the development of the grapes with the use of chemicals but relying instead through positioning of the vines to garner optimum light.

"This way we could have a super healthy and balanced grape." he says.

They sort grapes by hand with skins and stems, use wild yeast and employ time in a clay pot for aging.

Why go to the extra effort to be a Biodynamic winemaker? It is an easy question for Parera.

"I am a Biodynamic winemaker because I am a Biodynamic farmer-- from this point of view, you cannot do one thing without the other. When you are Biodynamic in the field, you have to be in the cellar! Natural without fear,” he says. “Demeter certification is only a matter of market and sales because without certification we would be the same, doing the same thing."

One of the many notable wines from Finca Parera is Khronos Penedes Sumoll. Sumoll is a Penedes grape; little is grown there (or anywhere else in the world). Most figures place Sumoll at less than 300 acres in production worldwide. It has a reputation as a grape that is difficult to grow and to make into wine. These considerations are secondary to Parera.

History is first.

"The Sumoll grape is indigenous in High Penedes. Many years ago this red grape, with Garnatxa, Carinyena and other locals grapes, were the most planted grapes here. This is the true history here and I have always thought that this variety would yield very fine, deep and well-aged wines." says Parera.

Khronos is a wonderful wine to drink young but it could certainly age. In describing it there is the temptation to compare it to more well known varietals but it is its own thing, its own unique wine with flavors and nuances unique to the grape and, more important, to Penedes.

"Sumoll has a good acidity and perfect tannins for aging in bottle or claytank or concrete tank. (It has) better variables for aging and good variables for fresh sensations in old wines." he says.

He says he has tasted this in other Sumolls including Els Jelipins from Gloria Garriga as an example of a fine version of the wine.

Parera is quick, and eloquent, in his dismissal of the notion of wine as art. To him it is more a trade, the result of hard work rather than inspiration.

"I do not think that it is art, but the ancestral trade of the farmer/winemaker (vigneron) that any person with sensitivity, training and practice could develop. I am the fourth generation of farmers and I love the land and respect the salut (health), time in cellar--is not an art, but a sensitive execution of an office." says Parera. "This I believe. For the art of sculpture, painting, dancing, etcetera you need a special natural gift since childhood, no? Something already predisposed to that artistic genius, right?"

It isn’t about art then but it is certainly about the terroir, the land.

Their land is more than vineyards. It includes organic cherry orchards, the first in Penedes as well as vegetables, almonds and olives. Finca Parera is in Upper Penedes, the part of the region furthest from the sea. The area sports a high altitude and calcareous-clay soil. Upper Penedes (or "High Penedes") also boasts large day to night temperature shifts which is generally a good thing for wine grapes; sunshine in the daytime and coolness to recover from heat at night.
Their vines range from young to nearly 80 years old. Finca Parera is agriculture focused and the land and its characteristics that make this possible.

"You can do things safely, but now we are focused on returning agricultural life to my daily life; we have many boxes of bees, a new orchard, replanted fruit of old varieties, we make marmalades and oils. (we want to) return to the farm a little!" he says.

Parera has also opened a bar, Salvatge, featuring natural wines in Barcelona. The bar is currently open and has wines in bulk.

Parera says he is interested in a number of other varietals native to Penedes from the white varietals: Picapoll, Carinyena Blanca, Sumoll Blanc, Sant Jaume, Escanyavelles and black types such as: Mandó, Rogenc, Garrut, Brocada.

They may or may not wind up producing wine from these.

"These grapes are 'ancestral' grapes, because today they are not planted in our country.For me it's investment in knowledge!” says Parera. “In the future maybe I make wine, maybe; today this is only for studying the vines and grapes in the vineyards."

Parera, himself, enjoys wines from Catalonia: Carriel dels Vilars, Recaredo, Joan Franquet, Carlania, Joan Asens, Clos Lentiscus and others, from Spain: Marenas, Daniel Ramos, Lagar do Merens and Puerta del Viento and from around the world: Foradori, Lewandowski, Chateau Laffitte and Mas del Perie.

The list of wines he enjoys is broad and is proof you need not focus in on one type of wine. Every wine you drink need not be Biodynamic nor, on the other hand, do they have to be ultra-traditional offerings. There are wines from all parts of the production spectrum for all tastes.

He says that people's expectation, anticipation about new wine is, in itself, reason enough to taste different wines. Adding that all wine lovers need to try new wines, from different unfamiliar grapes.

"Go ahead to taste the natural wines from the world!" says Parera.

Find out more HERE

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Cellers De Can Suriol, A Penedes Wine Producer, Make Inexpensive,Quality Wine, Using Exacting Methods--And It Isn't All About Cava, An Interview With Assis Suriol

6/27/2017

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by Patrick Ogle

Cellers de Can Suriol make Cava but they make more than just Spain's sparkling wine. In addition to the three Cavas they produce still wines from xarel-lo, parellada and a local clone of tempranillo (ull de llebre).

All the wines at Suriol are produced with practices you often find in much more expensive wines--there is no dosage in the sparklers, native yeasts, organic grapes and limited sulphur. They do not cut corners.

"I am doing what is really necessary to make wines, taking care of each process but leaving the grapes and the wine develop its own potential," says Assis Suriol. "I am a farmer and the winemaker is the grape, that means that I have to take care about each process in the vineyard and drive, in a good way, the fermentations and the products in the winery to have incredible, good products."

They produce their cavas using both time honored techniques and modern science.

"I am continuing the heritage and the knowledge from my father and grandfather. Our idea is the same and always mixes ancient knowledge with a scientific approach to make incredible sparkling wines, Cava and Penedès wines," he says.

Suriol notes that for a long time exports of cava were mostly from big winemakers shipping wine out in big quantities to make as much money as possible. The market was less than sophisticated. He says that now, in a more mature market, it is easier for people to understand and producers can explain the details to their customers. Consumers appreciate the details, how much care goes into making wines like those produced at Suriol.

In recent years some producers have become dissatisfied with Cava and its reputation for mass producing sparkling wines. It even led one noted producer, the descendant of the man who "invented" cava, to break away and start a new D.O. Raventos i blanc are the winemakers who created Conca del Riu Anoia. You can read an interview with Pepe Raventos HERE.

"I feel that together is always better to promote our Catalan culture and incredible soil but it is Raventós' choice." says Suriol.

Suriol says that, more and more, he finds interesting farm Cavas in the market. He also sees more people being attracted to cavas as quality increases while prices stay low.

"The price of our Cava is inexpensive because we are farmers and we don’t have any marketing department. That means that it takes years to sell our products." he says.

This time, this process, is a good thing. They are growing their business organically, letting it develop at its own pace. Ultimately Suriol hopes their prices can rise as people around the world fall in love with their wines. Currently their rose and brut Cavas sell for $14 to $16. Keep in mind these are vintage wines.

Suriol make more than Cava. The produce wines from xarel-lo, a grape some Americans may know. But they also make wine using another Cava grape, paralleda.

"Xarel·Lo is the main grape in Penedés because it is easy in the fields and easy in the winery, good production and high quality to make a Cava or a still wine. It is like our Chardonnay. For me it is an incredible wine in mouth feel," he says. "Parellada is a really great wine but it need more patience in the vineyard because it is very hard to produce-- low quantities with good quality. It needs altitude (more than 300 meters) and moreover, in the winery, it is difficult to work with this grape because it is very light and delicate. For me it is an incredible wine with earthy and floral notes and with a very soft and acid mouthfeel. Xarel·lo is like our king and parellada our queen."

The do several different xarel-lo wines and Suriol says they can be quite different depending on soil, weather and the people making the wine. There are simple xarel-lo wines and more complicated versions.

Penedes, a wine area South/Southwest of Barcelona, is an area known for white wines and cava but Suriol produce tempranillos called El Pelegri and Sang de Drac.

"El Pelegrí is ull de llebre that is the Catalán clone of tempranillo, like cousins! Working in organic and biodynamic helps our vines to be more and more powerful. Our wine, Sang de Drac, is a project started in 2008 and I think that is a great wine thanks to the powerful and earthiness from our vines. Also it is important the use of chestnut tree casks that permit our wine to breath and be wonderful on the nose."

Chestnut is purportedly richer in antioxidants and some phenolic compounds than oak but it is also more porous. Conclusive studies on the relative effects of each kind of wood have yet to be done. One such study can be found HERE.

The Suriol family have been working this land for hundreds of years before the USA even existed and this fact informs the wine they make.

"We are farmers from El Castell de Grabuac, we normally say the the house made the man who lives inside. That means that we live in the farmhouse and inside the vineyards which gives a full connection with the land, nature and biodiversity," he says. "For example I only have one mission for all my life: make the Castell de Grabuac house and the Can Suriol estate will be healthier than what my father gave to me, very easy but a lot of work! Moreover I only use traditional grapes, chestnut tree casks, wild yeasts, concrete tanks under the floor, because it is my way to protect the heritage of almost 200 years and more than 100 years making wine in our land."

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Brianne Day Makes Natural Wines That Show Off The Terroir Of Oregon (And Not JUST Pinot Noir)

3/30/2017

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Brianne Day Demonstrates Proper Wine-Tasting Etiquette.

by Patrick Ogle

Brianne Day's discovery of wine was a religious experience.

Really, it was.

Day, who grew up a Jehovah's Witness, was on a religious mission in Italy when wine took over her life.

"I became rather distracted from the purpose of my trip when I encountered wine and art, food, people, you know, Italy. The interest turned to a career when I was in my mid 20s," says Day. "I had been planning a trip around the world and decided to focus on wine producing regions to see if anything career related could come from this interest. Through the course of that trip I learned a ton, tasted a ton and met so many great people. I came to realize that I needed to be a winemaker."

Day, who creates wine in Oregon these days, interned in New Zealand, Argentina and France.

"I also worked for a French cooperage for a while. I have always wanted to make wine in Oregon. The Pacific Northwest is my home and I know it so well, expressing a place dear to my heart was/is one of the main motivating factors for me in making wine." she says.

She traveled and worked for 6 years before starting to make her own wines in 2012. The wines Day creates are natural, sourcing from organic and/or Biodynamic vineyards.

Most wine drinkers hear "Oregon" and think "pinot noir." Day makes wonderful pinot noirs but that isn't all. You will find red blends, (cab franc, malbec tannat), tannat varietals, malbec sparklers, white blends (with Muller-Thurgau, pinot gris, pinot blanc, muscat and riesling) and more.

Oregon is not just pinot country.

"All varieties are potentially "Oregon options". This is the new world. We aren't bound by rules and tradition and that is supremely liberating. I traveled around the world to get to know wine, and sometimes in Oregon I am lucky enough to come across a grower who wants to explore the potential of our state, and be a partner in exploration," she says. "Because I have this huge reference points for varieties and styles from my travels, I get to pull from that catalog and create with wanton abandon. I love the freedom and liberation of this."

This attitude is one that is shared by many of the more exciting winemakers; look to tradition and then go beyond it. They make their own tradition. Day is one of these refreshing voices.

Pinot noir may not be all that Day does but she certainly does it--and does it well.

"Pinot noir is a grape that very well describes a place. It is very translucent in handling, in vintage, and for the site," says Day. "I love seeing a place through the prism of pinot noir, and when I make pinot I attempt to help that prism shine as clearly as possible. So each of my pinots tastes very much of the place they are from."

Find out more at www.daywines.com

She has sourced grapes from a variety of sites in Oregon--as noted, from organic or Biodynamic certified sites. Among these are Crowley Station Vineyards, Cancilla Vineyards (see video above) and Johan Vineyards; each location produces grapes that lead to wines with different character. One may be more floral and another have more of a forest floor taste. One may have more aging potential. These wines tell the story of where they are from. These three vineyards are, of course, not the only ones Day uses.

"I work with 13 or 14 vineyards at this point and made 18 wines last year. I make them at my winery in Dundee Oregon. In 2015 I purchased a large warehouse building on two acres which had previously been used in vitamin production," says Day. "Over the course of the last two years I have remodeled most of the building and built a pretty sexy tasting room and patio to optimize the location on the main street in Dundee. There are 10 wineries making wine in my building, and the tasting room showcases all of our wines."

Day wines produce more than still wines; they have dipped their toes into the fizzy waters of the petillant natural. So far, with two wines--Mamacita and Papacito. The former was originally made from malvasia and when Day tried to text the grape name it was autocorrected to "mamacita" and a wine was born! Papacito was a primitivo (zinfandel) sparkling red. Both wines are still in the Day Wine repertoire despite the extra effort necessary to make sparklers.

"Bottling with sugar in the wine is a gamble - both because there may be too much pressure, or because there may not be enough," she says. "I never know until I try it and bottle it and see what happens. I like gambling though, I think some risk is fun, so it works for me."

Day Wines, as noted, have a new tasting room. Day also has another new addition on the way--her first child is coming soon.

"I am 5 months pregnant and due to have this baby in mid August - just before harvest. So I am looking forward to being a winemaking Mom and this new adventure. Maybe someday me and this baby will plant a vineyard together. I had a dream last night about an incredible vineyard property with this gorgeous, old, French farmhouse-chateau that I was just completing an update and remodel on," says Day. "I turned the bottom level into a white tablecloth restaurant, and the inside was a virtual museum of art work. On the property were all of these adorable mini-houses/cabins. It was a pretty great dream and the design of the whole thing was awesome. Maybe I'll do that."

Since her dreams seem to come true Day should pricing French châteaux.

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Eric Glomski Of Page Springs Cellars And Arizona Stronghold Wants To Make You Think Of Wine When You Think Of The Grand Canyon State

1/11/2017

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by Patrick Ogle

Tombstone, gun fights, John McCain, Painted Desert, a sheriff who makes inmates wear pink: these are things that might spring to mind when you think of Arizona. You likely don't think about wine. Yet Arizona is up and coming state in the industry. The state has a diverse range of geography,geology, climates and micro-climates.

"There is an amazing amount of diversity. We are also a semi-arid region. Look at where grapes originated--the Middle East. People unfailingly associate growing grapes with Coastal California or even Burgundy." says Eric Glomski, the man behind two of Arizona's most noted wineries--Arizona Stronghold and Page Springs Cellars.

Glomski points out that first the Greeks, then the Romans and Celts selected cold hardy grapes but then, and up until this day, most wine is still grown in hot, dry places. He worked in landscape ecology before devoting himself to wine so he knows of what he speaks.

When it comes to Arizona Glomski makes a bold claim.

"Id argue we have the best micro-climates in the USA." he says.

Born in Illinois Glomski grew up in Boston and went to college in Arizona at Prescott College. He fell in love with the Southwest but left to learn winemaking in California with Limerick Lane and David Bruce Winery.

"I worked my way up from cellar rat to co-winemaker in the late 1990s." says Glomski.

His love of the Southwest led him back to Arizona. He is involved in three different Arizona winemaking endeavors; Page Springs Cellars, Arizona Stronghold and his newest, low cost company, Provisioner. All of these produce all sorts of wines but with an accent on Rhone varietals.

"We are Rhone-centric but are getting more into Bordeaux." says Glomski.

Some of the clones they use for their wines are from the University of California (Davis)'s Foundation Plant Services (especially disease free and modern clones). They also use ENTAV (aka Etablissement National Technique pour l’Amelioration de la Viticulture) grapes. As can be guessed from the name ENTAV is a French organization that sell through a handful of licensed nurseries in the USA. Without going into excruciating detail these are both sources for quality
vines and, therefore quality wines.

One reason Arizona is "Rhone-centric" is that there are similarities to the Rhone; these are both real and superficial.

"If anything we are finding out sites look the same but are not." says Glomski.

One difference is that there are far more extreme diurnal temperature shifts in Arizona. The difference between Arizona and France goes beyond night to day changes in warmth.

"We go up in elevation to 3500 to 5500 feet, which, by European standards is pretty high." he says.

Many Arizona vineyards are in valleys that can have really cold nights and are frost prone. Frost is a bad thing for wine grapes pretty much anytime in their life. Glomski notes that cold air settles and the trick is to plant vines just above the cold air line in a valley. Easy to say but not always easy to do. Spring frost may, according to Glomski, the biggest obstacle to growing wine grapes in Arizona. Finding the sweet spot has led growers to plant in different places experimentally.

"We are still a young industry. We have some things nailed but we also screwed a lot of things up. Those of us who have spent time in Europe see there are similarities with the Rhone Landscape and also with Spain," he says. "But we are
expanding beyond these. It has taken us years and years and I am doing things completely differently. You learn lessons and hope you don't go bankrupt."

With all the differences from the Old World, and specifically the Rhone Valley, Glomski adds that they do produce a "classic Rhone-style syrah."

Page Springs Cellars, in particular, is a great place to visit--find out more HERE.

All three of the brands Glomski is involved with have a different approach historically. Page Springs started first then came Arizona Stronghold, as a partnership with Maynard James Keenan of the band Tool. Arizona Stronghold was a co-project with Keenan with the wines made out of Page Springs.

"Page Springs stayed small and esoteric with a large wine club; 95 percent to consumers and five percent distributed in Arizona." he says.

Arizona Stronghold had a meteoric rise. Glomski and Keenan even went on a tour to promote the wine.

"In San Diego in four hours we sold $65,000 worth of wine. We built the label around Maynard's celebrity. I was burning out from fast pased rock star lifestyle. Arizona Stronghold grew for awhile but collapsed because it was built on something other than wine. I felt we'd neglected the core--growing Arizona wine, selling in Arisona and growing the business and expanding organically."

Keenan and Glomski split up their partnership with Keenan taking a vineyard in the South of Arizona and starting Caduceus Cellars. Glomski shrank distribution of Arizona Stronghold to three or four states to rebuild the brand.

Provisioner is Glomski's low cost label with the aim of producing wines for $10 a bottle and under. Many producers around the world have multiple brands that focus on different parts of the wine market. New areas, especially those that are not associated with winemaking, often have wines that cost more than comparable wines from well known areas. Having wines in a variety of price ranges help an area develop.

Developing Arizona is Glomski's primary aim. He says he feels that they were making good wine from the get go but that making great wine is a trickier thing. A lot of it has to do with growing great grapes.

"Getting wine into B+ or A- categories is doable. Getting to A+ is in the details." he says.

Managing canopies (the plants themselves), learning organic and biodynamic practices and working with native yeasts are all part of these details.

"Refining the process, making with that is a unique expression of the place takes a longer time," says Glomski. "If you have basic skills you can make good wine but to make great wine? It is a lifelong pursuit, maybe a generational pursuit."

This pursuit of perfection in wine, the artistry of wine is sometimes more the ideal than reality.

"When you are trying to pay bills you are not thinking about being artistic." he says.

Two wines from Page Springs have received ratings over 90 from wine magazines, a feat no one had managed up to that point: Page Springs Cellars 2010 Colibri Vineyard syrah (cline 174) and Burning Tree Cellars 2010 Colibri syrah (clone 99). The latter wine was grown and produced for Burning Tree at Page Springs.

Glomski says that Arizona still needs time to find its place in the wine industry. The U.S. wine industry, as it exists, is young compared to Europe but it has far more freedom. The rules for making wine are open here. While nothing is a sure thing Arizona has everything to become a small but significant part of the USA's wine industry.

Find out more about tasting rooms to visit in Arizona HERE.

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Pepe Raventós, Of Raventós I Blanc, Says The Past Matters But Every Generation Of Winemaker Must Follow Their Own Dream

8/16/2016

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by Patrick Ogle

The land and vineyards of Raventós Estate have been in the Raventós family since five years after Columbus sailed for the Americas. They have been making wine on this land for over 500 years and first made sparkling wine in 1872 but the latest member of the clan to run the estate, Pepe Raventós, doesn't place as much emphasis on history as you might think.

"Having this long heritage doesn’t mean much. I think every generation has to start from scratch, and has to follow its own dream—not trying to do things as they have been done forever. But of course past matters." he says.

The people went before lay groundwork but the interpretation in the now is up to the new generation. What is most important is the land, the terroir and making something authentic.

"When I was a kid I used to spend the summers and harvest time in the family estate. For me tradition and modernity is Conca del Riu Anoia this means doing not the best wines but the most honest thanks to a soil, a climate and a valley," says Raventós. "We keep doing the same formula that my antecessor Josep Raventós Fatjó did in 1872. He was the creator of formula that nowadays is used for Cava. He understood the great potential of the grapes, the mineral structure of our oldest soils and, most importantly, that to become world class you have to be authentic. And we have the same dream: to create quality sparkling wines."

Raventos i Blanc produces a number of wonderful sparkling wines including; Manuel Raventós Negra, Textures de Pedra, De La Finca. De Nit and L'Hereu Blanc de Blancs.

The Spanish sparkling wine most Americans are familiar with is Cava but Conca del Riu Anoia is no longer a part of the Cava D.O. (this is the Spanish version of the French A.O.C., Italian D.O.C and American A.V.A.). Conca del Riu Anoia is now its own D.O. and has much more rigorous standards than Cava. Ask yourself, as a consumer, what you think of Cava compared to Champagne? Are they of the same quality? Any objective wine-lover will answer with a resounding "No."

This was a big step for a descendant of the man who created Cava but Raventos felt that they could get something more than a mass produced sparkler from their land.

"Conca was born because I want this region to be known in the rest of the world. I want that sparkling wines from Conca talk about of prestigious and viticulture," he says. "We went out from DO Cava in 2012 and since then we’ve been working for positioning Raventós at the same level of the grower champagnes. It has been a communication work to position the brand. We are not any more at the same level of Cava that has an image of cheap and affordable."

Grower champagnes are those that are made by the actual growers of the grapes. Many large production champagnes buy grapes and may not even own any actual vineyards. Grower Champagnes are usually thought to be of higher quality than those that are mass produced (you can also generate fun arguments by making this statement around some people).

When Conca hived off from Cava the world took note.

"There are a lot of people that has noticed this movement. The journalists and influencers have supported and praised it. For example, we were featured in The Wall Street Journal or New York Times talking about our decision," says Raventós. "The restaurant menus also received and welcomed this new DO and they did a differentiation between the different zones: Champagne /
Conca Del Riu Anoia / Cava. The same occurred in specialty wine stores."

Other producers left as well and some who remained were unhappy. One called those leaving “cowardly.” Although there was no explanation of how leaving a known brand for the unknown could be that.

Raventós says this new D.O. has impacted Cava itself and small steps are being taken in Cava and Penedès to improve quality. Cava has a new sub classification, Cava de Paraje Calificado. He is a little skeptical about these initial moves.

"For us they are absolutely tiny and confusing." he says."... I don’t think the New sub classification in the D.O. Cava, Cava de Paraje Calificado, will really make a difference to Cava’s image."

He says that while Conca is about a concrete, quite specific area the new cava classification is about a wine made in a single plot but from different regions. There are other differences but ultimately the new Cava classification is about method rather than terroir.

"For us it’s not enough and we go much further." he says. (see table below)

Raventós also notes that other wineries in other regions, Artadi in Rioja, for instance, have become dissatisfied with their D.O. and have left.

"Overall in Spain is having a pretty movement in favor of the winemaker to protect and recover the Spanish vineyard forcing the D.O.’s to change their regulations." he says.

How specifically has the new Conca D.O. improved Raventós wines?

"To achieve this new standards, we did a lot of work before that. First of all, we did some studies of the soil.These studies were conducted by Olivier Tregoat (an expert on Bordeaux soils) and Lluís Cabrera (professor of geology at the University of Barcelona) and they showed that the soils on the Raventós i Blanc estate on the river terraces date back to the oldest period of the Penedès depression - 16 million years ago - and are home to a large number of marine
fossils," he says. "The main characteristic of the soils is the deep galera - layers of marine fossil sediments encrusted in the clay and loam with a calcareous base."

They removed foreign varietals such as pinot noir, chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon and planted local grapes. This is the opposite of what you are seeing in many parts of the world. The so-called international varietals are replacing indigenous varietals virtually everywhere. There are a number of noted wine writers who champion the destruction of indigenous grapes with the "superior" international varietals. Raventós and Conca also stopped making some base wines that were not a minimum of 80 percent estate grown.

"Since we took the decision there hasn’t been a change in the spirit because in some way we converted our estate in the same that my intercessors used to work. With Conca I want to reflect the same values of innovation, passion for this area of Penedès and conviction to our (traditions) that all my family had in the past," he says. "For me it wasn’t something radical but something natural. Honestly, this decision has made us take difficult decisions, being very strict with the work we do, and strongly respectful with our land, nature and forms of viticulture."

One difference between Cava and Conca is that the latter uses only native grapes--some of which are not used in Cava.

"To make wines that would most faithfully express our terroir, we decided only to use native grape varieties that historically adapted well to our soils," says Raventós. "As part of our venture to convert our estate from organic to bio=dynamic, we decided to root up foreign varieties - the chardonnay vines in the La Plana area - and re-graft in our youngest plots with the aim of growing 100 percent native grape varieties. We believe that best varieties for sparkling wine in our zone of macabeu, xarel.lo, sumoll and bastard negre."

But the grapes--xarel-lo, parellada and macabeo--what makes them the right combination for great sparkling wine?

"These three grapes make a good sparkling wine as they are the three varieties used by my ancestor when he created the formula. The xarel-lo gives complexity, aging, volume and structure," he says. "It´s the variety that adapts best to the Mediterranean climate. Macabeo grape gives elegance, balance, and acidity and parellada grape softness and a floral touch."

He declines to make any direct comparison with Champagne or its grapes.

"We cannot compare the grapes of our area as they are different ones. Ours adapt better to Mediterranean climate," says Raventos. "They are two different things, neither better nor worse. They have different flavors, different styles."

Some of the lesser known grapes Raventós i Blanc use include sumoll, bastard negre and red xarel-lo

"For our blanc de noirs, Textures de Pedra, we use three local red varieties sumoll, bastard negre and red xarel-lo. Sumoll it’s not used in Cava as it’s not allowed. It gives the best acidity to the wines. Bastard negre gives strength and dynamism as well as density and texture," he says. "For so many years we thought we had monastrell in the estate, but after analyzing its DNA we realized it was bastard negre. It’s not trousseau/ bastardo nero in Galicia and Portugal. It’s the same as bastardo nero in Sardinia, morastel in France and graciano in Rioja. Red xarel-lo is more rustic, gives structure and more maturation but maintains good the acidity."

Raventós i blanc make more than just sparkling wines. They make lovely still wines with one of the grapes used to make their sparklers, xarel-lo. Two of these wines are Silencis and Extrem.

"They are our two natural non filtered wines the youngest ones we produce in Raventós i Blanc. They have a silky character but they are bodied wine. For those who haven’t try them I would tell them; "If you want to experience with something new and very mineral, try them”," he sas. "Xarel-lo is a white variety and the most expressive grape from El Penedès. Bright, unique, it is the essence of our territory. It has an excellent adaptation to the soil and climate of the area."

They even tried a red wine made from non-native grapes (cabernet sauvignon, syrah and monastrell). Raventós says it was a trend in the 1980s and that the two non-native varietals do not work as well as local ones. They still grown monastrell (aka mourvedre) and even use it in a sparkling wine but the cab and syrah are gone.

"We don’t think it’s a good choice working with grapes that don’t adapt to your climate. Everybody makes mistakes." he says.

He says his plans for the winery are simple. It is his objective to encourage his team to have a clear purpose and a single idea--prestige.

Raventós has just moved back to Sant Sadurni with all of his family to live in the farmhouse his family has occupied for the past 21 generations.

After all history does some allure.

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Horton Vineyards Makes Virginia Wines Thomas Jefferson Dreamed Of--From The Easy Drinking To Age Worthy

7/11/2016

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by Patrick Ogle

Horton Vineyards makes a variety of wines, from the light and easy to drink to the more complex and age worthy. The company produces wines from grapes that everyone knows and more obscure grapes usually found in specific regions. The most surprising fact about Horton may be its location - Virginia.

When you think of wine born in the USA, Virginia isn’t the first state you think of. It probably isn’t even the fifth or sixth state you think of. But Virginia has one of the longest histories of winegrowing in North America. Much of this history involved abject failure, but defeat has provided valuable lessons. We know more now. We know more about grapes that match the land (including the native grape, Norton). We know more about why European grapes died when planted here. We know more about agriculture in general.

Michael Heny, winemaker at Horton Vineyards, sees Virginia as a logical home for winemaking - and a serious challenge to winemakers.

“Throughout history, wherever or whenever people have traveled and found themselves with some land, some rain and some sun, their thoughts eventually get around to ‘I wonder if I could make some wine here.’ Virginia is no different,” Heny says. “When Raleigh’s expedition landed off the coast of North Carolina in 1584 what did they see? An ancient vine laden with grapes. Ever since Jamestown we have been trying to grow grapes in Virginia.”

Thomas Jefferson tried for virtually his entire adult life to grow wine in Virginia without success. His neighbor, Italian winemaker Fillipo Mazzei, had an experimental vineyard that was destroyed during the Revolution and never replanted afterward.

Heny asks: What if the horses of Hessian soldiers fighting for the British hadn’t trampled those vines?

“The grapevine is at home in this part of the world.” he says. “We have a unique situation here in Virginia, with unique challenges and opportunities. There was phylloxera, there is humidity, there was prohibition, brutally cold winters, civil war. There is red clay terra rosa, there are gnarly granite hillsides, there are long stretches of Napa East ripening weather. So maybe it took us a bit longer to get to the table than some of the other more established U.S. wine regions, but it is this story that makes us interesting. The journey is always more exciting than the destination. The goal is to keep moving, to continually explore and discover a uniquely Virginia taste unlike any other in the world.”

Phylloxera is a nasty pest native to the eastern United States. In addition to creating problems for winegrowers in the U.S., the louse almost wiped out the world’s wine industry in the 1860s. Phylloxera is less of an issue these days, but Virginia still struggles with humidity (which can lead to fungal disease) and cold winters. Rain is virtually guaranteed during the grape harvest, which is not desirable.

“This has made us have to be better as farmers and has forced us to find varieties and techniques that can thrive in these conditions,” Heny says. “To balance these extremes, we get long stretches where it’s sunny and 75, and there is no better place in the world to be a winemaker or a grape destined to be made into wine.”

The conditions in Virginia lead a winemaker to make important choices regarding the grapes. European varietals (vitis vinifera) have a history of doing poorly. But many native grapes have a reputation for producing poor wines. So which do you plant?

“It took us about 30 years to prove we could grow vinifera here,” Heny says. “While those wines were never great, they could be good. That was the first step. The past 20 years has been an exciting exploration of which grapes, on which hillsides, with which trellising systems. … All of the small details that ultimately make the wines unique.

“It would be convenient if Virginia could find a signature grape that we could rally our marketing muscle behind. Napa has cabernet, the Willamette Valley pinot noir, the Finger Lakes riesling. Our terroir resists such easy pigeonholing. Instead you will find a stable full of fascinating grapes: viognier, petit manseng and albariño being the most promising (in the Horton experience) for whites, cabernet franc, tannat, and petit verdot for the reds.”

Heny says that the grape behind Barolo and Barbaresco, nebbiolo and the South African creation pinotage have shown tremendous promise and seem to get consistent results.

Petit manseng is a grape from southwestern France, and these days Albariño comes from Spain (technically it originally comes from France but hasn’t been grown there in any quantity for centuries). You will also see Alvarinho from Portugal, the same grape with a different spelling. Viognier, called the State Grape of Virginia, comes from the northern Rhone Valley in France and has spread a bit around the world but still isn’t quite a household name.

“Now that we have a better idea of which grapes to concentrate on, the next step that we are very deeply into exploring is the minutiae of exactly how it is done. Which hillside, facing which way? How close are you going to place your plants? What is your trellising going to look like? Spur pruned or cane pruned? How many leaves to leave, which clusters to drop and when. In the Monticello Wine Region, we have come together to explore in a collaborative, rigorous way what differences, if any, many of these details make on the final product,” Heny says.

One of the most fascinating grapes grown in Virginia - and by Horton - is a native called the norton. The grape is the creation of Dr. Daniel Norton, a physician, grape grower and wine enthusiast. He created this grape during the lifetime of Thomas Jefferson, but it didn’t spread until after the former president’s death. It became a major grape in Virginia but also in Missouri, winning international recognition.

Its flavor profile is a little difficult to explain.

“Imagine a vine native to the region where it is grown, adapted to that climate, a part of its history, grown few other places in the world,” Heny says. “A vine that thrives in seasons both ideal and challenging, across a wide range of locations. Requires less protection against the elements than finicky imported grapes. Produces a wine dark of color, soft of texture and unique of scent with an unabashed fruity grapiness when young, a quality to be either emphasized or subdued. … As the famous wine writer said, ‘Either norton is growing on me, or you're getting better at it.’ Or maybe we're meeting in the middle. Horton norton - what's not to like?”

So what can you expect flavor-wise from a norton?

“Rich of color, light of tannin, smooth of texture, a well made norton fills the mouth with a flavor full of brambly, briery deep woods mystery unlike any other, along with the fleeting glimpse of cacao nub, brown spice pod, the occasional nod of bruised mint leaf,” Heny says. “Norton divides the waters. People either love it or hate it. It’s like zinfandel in California, pinotage in South Africa. I don’t get it when people don’t get norton. But there are people who don’t like cilantro, and I don’t get that either. De Gustibus Non Est Disputandum, I guess.”

Norton was likely an easy choice to try in Virginia; it is a hometown grape, after all. But the other grapes, from far flung parts of the world, are a different matter. Pinotage, for instance, is rarely seen outside of South Africa.

“Each of these oddball grapes started off as small experimental blocks that did well over a 10-year trial then were scaled up for commercial production,” Heny says. “Virginia is a unique region in terms of its growing conditions and as such we need unique grapes and techniques to maximize our potential. If you are imitating, you are always two steps behind.”

These “oddball” grapes also show up in some oddball blends from Horton. Many of these varietals do not seem likely to have ever been bottled together before. How and why do they fit together?

“Complexity in warm climates is achieved through blending. We look to the Southern Rhône just as much as we look toward Bordeaux. Ultimately, we must adapt to local conditions. So when we set off to make a GSM type of blend in the early days, we tried the obvious: grenache, syrah, mourvedre. But the grenache was very disappointing,” says Heny. “Over time, we discovered that for us, the pinotage can be blended with the mourvedre and syrah to make a compelling wine. Some years we’ll use a pinch of tannat to bring the thing together. And so we have our Côtes d’Orange.”

To use the name of one grape on a label in the U.S. ,the wine only has to have 75 percent of that grape in the bottle (Europe requires 85 percent). Many Napa cabs have a little petit verdot, merlot, malbec or even tempranillo in the bottle.

“The same can be said of our cabernet franc. Though bottled as a varietal, we always blend with tannat, sometimes close to the 25 percent allowed by law. Why wouldn’t you?” Heny says. “When you have the perfect chameleon blending partner, adding tannin and color without distracting from the rose petal and spiced cinnamon fragrance.”

When bold and forward-thinking people take chances, they can produce great things. Such creativity, combined with hard-learned lessons, has helped Virginia blossom as a wine producing region.

“These are exciting times in Virginia. It is exciting to see all of the new talent and investment coming into the state, and the attention we are receiving,” says Heny. ”Every day I’m excited to share what we’ve already accomplished and excited to be a part of the unfolding 2016 vintage.”

Heny Describes Virginia's Best Vinifera Grapes

Petit manseng: The ultimate open cluster, with tiny solid berries. This is the vinifera best suited to the growing conditions here in Virginia. The grape ripens at very high sugars and natural acidity. It is best suited for making sweet wines and lush off-dry whites (moelleux). But people don’t drink a lot of sweet wines so there is lots of experimentation on how to best make balanced table wines that reflect the flavors of the grape. Petit manseng has been on the verge of being the next big thing for about a decade, it seems like it has now arrived.

Viognier: The grape that put Horton Vineyards, and the whole of Virginia wine, on the international map for the first time in the early 1990s. Viognier consistently ripens in Virginia at a point on the spectrum at which the varietal character is there without going over the top.

Albariño: Beautiful vehicle for crisp, transparent unoaked whites. Oysters, anyone?

Tannat: Everything you could ask for in making a bold rich wine. Color, acid, tannin, Flavors of crushed black fruit. Our secret weapon chameleon blending partner. Meshes perfectly with cabernet franc, fills in the holes without taking over the wine. The Art of Darkness.

Pinotage: Pinot Noir is (mostly) a disaster to grow in Virginia. Early ripening Pinotage, by contrast, thrives here offering flavors somewhere between delicate, floral pinot and a rich, gamey syrah. Though the cluster is extremely tight, the berries are bullet tough, making it resistant to the challenges our humid climate can present.

Nebbiolo: Most of all, it’s the scent. Nothing beats the haunting bouquet of a ripe nebbiolo. The challenge here is to deliver this haunting delicacy on a high tannin, high acid lifeboat with very modest color. This wine takes love, passion, patience which it rewards in just proportion.

Petit Verdot: This minor grape of Bordeaux has become a standalone sensation here in Virginia. The literature talks about flavors of “pencil lead,” “pencil shavings.” I guess they couldn’t get it ripe. PV ripens very well in Virginia offering haunting aromas, silky textures, deep and full color. The race is on between pv and tannat to make bold, rich reds in the state. Check back in 20 or 30 years. We won’t be able to tell you who won yet, but we can at least argue with conviction about who is ahead in the race.

You can check out the winemakers’ work at www.winemakersresearchexchange.com

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Weingut Knauss' Andi Knauss On Organic And Minimal Intervention German Wines (That Are More Than Just Riesling)

5/19/2016

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by Patrick Ogle

Weingut Knauss is a producer of wines in the Wurttemberg-Remstal in south-central Germany. They make wine in a wide variety of prices and styles, from international varietals like merlot and chardonnay to wines most likely found in Germany and from inexpensive to expensive.

And yes, they do grow some riesling. Everyone tends to varietal when German wine comes up--riesling.

German winemakers must get tired of the inevitable riesling questions; even though the grape is Germany's most grown it is far from the only stand out from the country.

"I agree with you that Germany is often associated with riesling, but there are a lot of grape varieties that are very exciting, too. For us the lemberger and trollinger are great grapes," says Andi Knauss, cellar master, winemaker et cetera at Weingut Knauss. "It is very typical for our region and it brings a wide range of different flavors depending on the vineyard where it grows."

Lemberger, also known as blaufränkisch, is grown in Austria and Eastern Europe. Lemberger/blaufränkisch can be light to medium bodied and tend to be tannic and spicy with dark fruit flavors . The wine has fairly high acidity which isn't surprising given that it is grown in relatively cool areas. Most lemberger in Germany is grown in Wurttemberg. Trollinger, known as schiava grossa in Italy, is a fruity, light wine with mild to moderate acidity. Again, in Germany most of it is grown in Wurttemberg.

Weingut Knauss create a number of trollingers. There is a fairly low priced version (pictured here) that is the perfect compromise wine when someone wants a red, another a white and a third a rose. To add to its attractiveness it comes in a liter bottle (an extra glass, more or less).

Then there is "without all," a trollinger that expands upon the winery's low intervention philosophy.

"The 'without all' is the consequence coming from our change to organic farming. The idea originates in the Jura where a lot of non-sulfured, non-chapitalized wines are produced," says Knauss. "Trollinger is very similar to Poulsard in the Jura so we just gave it a shot and it worked very well."

Wines often have sulfur added at various stages and for various reasons. Chapitalization refers to adding sugar in wines, as is sometimes done in areas where grapes do not achieve optimal ripeness (ripeness equals sugar).

"Without all," when you find it in the store has no front label at all.

When asked about Weingut Knauss having a mission in their creation of organic and minimal intervention wines he doesn't care for the term, "mission.'

"I don’t think that 'mission' is a good expression for what we are doing. We just keep it simple and do our own thing," he says. "Low-tTech winemaking is the key."

Weingut Knauss grows grapes and purchases them from growers in the area. Knauss believes in the quality of all of these grapes regardless of their origin.

"The relationship to our partners is very close, so we have an ongoing overview over all our vineyards," says Knauss. "The main part of our harvest is by hand, so the grapes can be selected in the vineyard and only the best quality comes to the cellar."

What is coming next from these German winemakers?

"We have some new sparkling wines coming. Also no dosage, no added sulfur and made from two of the main varieties in the Champagne, pinot noir and pinot meunier or spätburgunder and schwarzriesling as we call them in Swabia. We are very excited about these." says Knauss.

Selektionsweine

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Kir-Yianni's Lambros Papadimitriou Discusses The Greek Wine Company,The Wines They Create And Why You Should Give Greek Wines A Try

10/20/2015

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by Patrick Ogle

Kir-Yianni, was established 18 years ago when Yiannis Boutaris left the Boutari Wine Group, the premium family wine company started by his grandfather in 1879. He left the family business but he brought their history and ethic with him to the Kir-Yianni.

“The company continues a long family tradition focusing on the production of high quality wines, which combine style with authenticity and offer true enjoyment, from grapes produced at Kir-Yianni’s extensive vineyard holdings in the two wine regions of Naoussa and Amyndeon, on both sides of mount Vermio in North-Western Greece.” says Lambros Papadimitriou Sales & Marketing Director at Kir-Yianni. “Today Kir-Yianni, led by Stellios Boutaris, son of Yiannis, follows its vision into the next phase of its history , by dynamically exploiting the cornerstones of the Kir-Yianni philosophy: desire for innovation, respect for tradition and a true knowledge of the wine, from the grape to the end consumer.”

The flagship of the brand, produced in Naoussa, is Ktima Kir-Yianni (Yianakohori Hills) a xinomavro and merlot blend. The area also produces the 100 percent xinomavro wine, Ramnista and another “super-blend” Dyo Elies (xinomavro, syrah and merlot).

“In 2008, Diaporos, a single vineyard modern style xinomavro was also released. In 2011, Ble Alepou, 'Blue Fox' in English, a Bordeaux blend was launched in selected markets.” says Papadimitriou.

If xinomavro is not familiar do not worry; it is not necessarily an indication of a low wine I.Q. The grape, despite its history and pedigree, has been little seen in the United States.

“Xinomavro is the main and noblest indigenous red grape variety of northern Greece. This is a fickle variety, very difficult to grow, but very rewarding when treated right in the vineyard and at the winery, able to give terroir-driven wines, with a unique character. The name of the variety reveals its basic features: high in acidity (Xino-, sour), deep, black in colour (-mavro, black), with powerful tannins,” says Papadimitriou. “This combination of high acidity and phenolic richness results in wines with the possibility to age for many years, sometimes decades. It is also a versatile grape, able to give wines from firm, tannic red, to fragrant roses and blanc de noir, still or sparkling, dry or even sweet.”

Kir-Yianni has been in the vanguard of research, development, new cultivation and winemaking techniques in Greece—and their focus has always been on xinomavro. The grape is the cornerstone of some of the most well known Greek appellations, including PDO Naoussa and PDO Amyndeon where wines are 100 percent xinomavro. Kir-Yianni makes wine in both appellations.

“Also, the very successful rosé Akakies, the only dry PDO rosé is produced from 100% xinomavro, together with its “sibling”, Akakies Sparkling, which became an instant success as soon as it was released in summer 2012. Two red wines complete our portfolio: Paranga, the house red blend produced by grapes sourced mostly in Amyndeon, and Kali Riza, our PDO 100% xinomavro from old vines.” he adds.

The company is not only about xinomavro; they create white wines, sometime using creative blends.

“In Amyndeon the focus is on whites: Tesseris Limnes, a unique blend of chardonnay and gewurztraminer, the classic Ktima Kir-Yianni (Samaropetra Vineyard) a roditis and sauvignon blanc blend, and Petra, a roditis and malagouzia blend are produced, as well as Droumo, a very refined expression of sauvignon blanc coming from the namesake vineyard,” says Papadimitriou.

He says that roditis is one of the oldest and most widespread Greek grape varieties. It is a pink-skinned grape but is used in making white wines with aromas of ripe fruits, high alcohol content and balanced acidity. The grape is also given to genetic variation and is known across Greece in various names; each of these denoting different qualities.

“When grown in high altitude, low-yielding vineyards roditis is able to produce wines showing intense aromas and a good structure,” he says. “The mountainous vineyards of Amyndeon, with the continental climate and the poor sandy soils give one of the best expressions of this Greek indigenous grape, which is reflected in the skillful Kir-Yianni blends.”

Naoussa Vineyard

With all the options available why should the American consumer look to Greek wines? For one you can experience varietals different from those you've tasted before. You will hear xinomavro called “Greece's pinot noir” but it is really its OWN varietal with its own characteristics. Papadimitriou urges people try Kir-Yianni wines for similar reasons.

“The wines of Kir-Yianni highlight the potential of the Northern Greece terroir and of its indigenous grape varieties, such as the rare red Xinomavro, with the unique aromatic character reminiscent of strawberry, cherries, tomato and olive and the Barolo-like capacity to age gracefully,” he says. “Characterful and refined, showing perfect balance in the mouth and ease of combination with various dishes of the Greek and international cuisine, these wines are among the finest examples of the emerging Greek vineyard, truly appealing to the modern consumer.”

In particular he suggests starting with Ramnista (100 percent xinomavro) from Naoussa or Akakies sparkling (100 percent xinomavro). The latter is from the mountains of the Amyndeon area which is the only appellation for sparkling wine in Greece.

The current fiscal issues in Greece have not been lost on Kir-Yianni or other Greek winemakers. In one way it has helped introduce these wines to the world and offer Greece a viable export.

“The current economic crisis has slowed down growth rate in the Greek market, but has helped all Greek wineries to focus on exports, which has led to increased sales abroad. The fact that more and more wineries show openness towards foreign markets helps producers such as Kir-Yianni, which has been an export-oriented company since very early, to spread the word about Greek wine. In the most adverse conditions, Greek wine is a promising success story that shows the way towards a creative solution to the country's economic crisis.” says Papadimitriou.

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Arianna Occhipinti Has Made Wine In Sicily Since Before It Would Have Been Legal For Her To Drink It In The USA

Ruben Parera, Farmer and Winemaker At Finca Parera, Creates Wine Reflecting The Terroir Of Upper Penedes, Spain

Find out more HERE

Cellers De Can Suriol, A Penedes Wine Producer, Make Inexpensive,Quality Wine, Using Exacting Methods--And It Isn't All About Cava, An Interview With Assis Suriol

Brianne Day Makes Natural Wines That Show Off The Terroir Of Oregon (And Not JUST Pinot Noir)

Find out more at www.daywines.com

Eric Glomski Of Page Springs Cellars And Arizona Stronghold Wants To Make You Think Of Wine When You Think Of The Grand Canyon State

Page Springs Cellars, in particular, is a great place to visit--find out more HERE.

Find out more about tasting rooms to visit in Arizona HERE.

Pepe Raventós, Of Raventós I Blanc, Says The Past Matters But Every Generation Of Winemaker Must Follow Their Own Dream

Horton Vineyards Makes Virginia Wines Thomas Jefferson Dreamed Of--From The Easy Drinking To Age Worthy

Heny Describes Virginia's Best Vinifera Grapes

You can check out the winemakers’ work at www.winemakersresearchexchange.com

Weingut Knauss' Andi Knauss On Organic And Minimal Intervention German Wines (That Are More Than Just Riesling)

Kir-Yianni's Lambros Papadimitriou Discusses The Greek Wine Company,The Wines They Create And Why You Should Give Greek Wines A Try

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